Fibre: polyester, nylon, cotton, leather
Polyester is the cost and print champion; nylon is stronger per gram; cotton and jute sell an eco story; leather and its synthetics sell premium. Fibre sets roughly half the fabric price.
Fabric library
Custom Bag Fabrics: 24 Materials Compared
Fabric is 30% of a bag's cost and 100% of its first impression. Below is every material we stock or dye - photographed in our sample room - with weights, coatings, strengths, weaknesses, best uses and relative cost, plus the tests each roll passes before it is cut.
- 24 materials in stock
- 60+ stock colours
- Pantone from 1,000 m
- GRS recycled available
How to choose
Three decisions set the fabric: fibre, denier, finish
Fibre decides strength and price, denier decides thickness and hand, finish decides weather resistance. Everything else - colour, print, texture - is applied on top.
Denier: 210D to 1680D
Yarn weight. Higher is thicker, stiffer, more abrasion-resistant and heavier. 600D is the baseline; go down for packable, up for premium or heavy-duty.
Finish: PU, PVC, TPU, wax, DWR
The back-coating or laminate decides water resistance and cold-weather behaviour. PU is standard; TPU is waterproof and EU-friendly; PVC is cheap but stiffens in cold.
01 / 5
Polyester & nylon
The core of 80% of bag production: durable, printable, coated for weather.
Polyester 600D / 900D / 1680D
600D 300 gsm; 900D 380 gsm; 1680D 520 gsm (with PU)
Crisp, structured; denser = stiffer
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- PU coating: shower-proof; PVC backing: waterproof panel
- Best for
- School, laptop, travel, promo, gym
- Strengths
- Best price-to-durability; prints sharply; UV and colour stable
- Watch out
- Heavier than nylon at equal strength
Oxford cloth 210D-1200D
210D 110 gsm to 1200D 420 gsm
Basket weave, slightly glossy
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- PU / PVC coated
- Best for
- School bags, linings (210D), shopping bags
- Strengths
- Classic school-bag look; wide colour stock
- Watch out
- Lower abrasion than plain-weave polyester at same denier
Nylon 420D / 1000D
420D 200 gsm; 1000D 400 gsm
Soft, slight sheen, quiet
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- PU coated 1,000-2,000 mm
- Best for
- Hiking, tactical, premium business
- Strengths
- Higher tear and abrasion strength than polyester; lighter
- Watch out
- 20-40% dearer; absorbs more water uncoated
Ripstop nylon / polyester
70D 70 gsm to 420D 210 gsm
Grid texture, papery when light
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Silicone or PU coated
- Best for
- Packable bags, packing cubes, hiking linings
- Strengths
- Stops tears spreading; ultralight; packable
- Watch out
- Thin grades show wear at corners
RPET recycled polyester
300D-900D, same as virgin
Identical to virgin polyester
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- PU coated
- Best for
- Europe-bound retail, corporate CSR programmes
- Strengths
- GRS certificate; retail sustainability requirement
- Watch out
- +8-12% vs virgin; certificate paperwork
02 / 5
Cotton, canvas & natural fibres
Heritage look and eco signal for totes, fashion and gift lines.
Cotton canvas 8-16 oz
8 oz 270 gsm to 16 oz 540 gsm
Matte, natural, softens with wear
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Waxed option; otherwise absorbent
- Best for
- Totes, heritage backpacks, gift bags
- Strengths
- Premium eco look; prints and embroiders beautifully
- Watch out
- Shrinks if not pre-washed; heavier; stains
Denim
10-14 oz
Twill, rugged
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- None (wax optional)
- Best for
- Fashion totes, mini backpacks, pouches
- Strengths
- Fashion appeal; washes and distressing
- Watch out
- Colour bleed on first washes
Linen & cotton-linen
180-320 gsm
Textured, breathable
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- None
- Best for
- Premium eco totes, gift and beauty bags
- Strengths
- Premium natural texture; low-impact fibre
- Watch out
- Creases; limited colour depth
Jute / burlap
250-400 gsm
Coarse, rustic
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Laminated interior recommended
- Best for
- Supermarket and promotional totes, wine bags
- Strengths
- Strong eco signal; very low cost
- Watch out
- Sheds fibres; coarse print surface
Felt (wool / polyester)
2-5 mm
Soft, structured, padded
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- None
- Best for
- Laptop sleeves, organisers, gift bags
- Strengths
- Protective; premium tactile; laser-cut edges
- Watch out
- Pills with abrasion
03 / 5
Leather & vegan leather
Trims, panels and full bodies for business and fashion.
PU leather
0.6-1.2 mm on knit or non-woven base
Smooth or grained; vegan
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Wipe-clean
- Best for
- Fashion backpacks, business trims, pulls
- Strengths
- Leather look at 1/5 the cost; embossable; any colour
- Watch out
- Cracks after 2-3 years in heat; not for high-flex hinges
Microfiber leather
0.8-1.4 mm
Closest synthetic to real leather
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Wipe-clean
- Best for
- Premium business bags and trims
- Strengths
- Durable, breathable, consistent; premium hand
- Watch out
- 2-3x PU price
Genuine cowhide
1.0-1.8 mm
Full-grain or top-grain; develops patina
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Conditioned; not waterproof
- Best for
- Luxury backpacks, briefcases, trims
- Strengths
- Luxury and longevity; brand premium
- Watch out
- Price; weight; hide variation
Sheepskin
0.6-1.0 mm
Ultra-soft, drapey
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- None
- Best for
- Luxury mini backpacks, clutches, linings
- Strengths
- Softest hand for fashion
- Watch out
- Scratches easily; low structure
04 / 5
Technical & coated
Waterproof, padded, ventilated and ultra-low-cost reusable.
TPU laminated
0.3-0.8 mm film on 210D-840D base
Smooth, matte or glossy
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Fully waterproof; weldable seams
- Best for
- Dry bags, roll-tops, cooler liners, cycling
- Strengths
- Waterproof without PVC; flexible in cold; recyclable
- Watch out
- Price; scuffs show on gloss
PVC coated / tarpaulin
450-900 gsm
Heavy, stiff, glossy
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Fully waterproof; weldable
- Best for
- Messenger bags, tool bags, shopping bags
- Strengths
- Lowest-cost waterproof; wipe-clean
- Watch out
- Stiffens and cracks in cold; not EU-preferred
Neoprene
2-5 mm
Padded, stretchy, rubbery
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Water-resistant
- Best for
- Laptop sleeves, lunch bags, cooler totes, bottle carriers
- Strengths
- Built-in padding and insulation; sublimation-printable
- Watch out
- Price; limited structure
Air mesh / sandwich mesh
3-8 mm spacer
Springy, breathable
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- None
- Best for
- Back panels, shoulder straps, bottle pockets
- Strengths
- Ventilated back panels and straps; hot-climate essential
- Watch out
- Snags; not for outer body
Non-woven PP
70-120 gsm
Paper-like, matte
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Laminated option
- Best for
- Supermarket, event and promo totes
- Strengths
- Cheapest reusable bag; full-colour lamination
- Watch out
- Limited life (30-50 uses); ultrasonic seams only
05 / 5
Specialty finishes
Glitter, foil, pearlescent and soft-touch for fashion, kids and beauty.
Glitter fabric
300-400 gsm
Textured sparkle on PU or polyester
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Wipe-clean
- Best for
- Kids backpacks, cheer and dance bags
- Strengths
- Kids and party appeal
- Watch out
- Sheds if low grade; fingerprint marks
Metallic foil
250-350 gsm
Smooth, mirror or brushed
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Wipe-clean
- Best for
- Fashion totes, cosmetic bags, event gifts
- Strengths
- Fashion and gift impact
- Watch out
- Creases show; scuffs
Pearlescent
250-350 gsm
Soft shimmer
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Wipe-clean
- Best for
- Cosmetic bags, kids fashion
- Strengths
- Subtle premium look for beauty lines
- Watch out
- Colour shifts under different light
Suede / peach-skin microfiber
180-300 gsm
Brushed, soft
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- None
- Best for
- Linings, laptop sleeves, jewellery pouches
- Strengths
- Soft-touch linings and pouches; protects electronics
- Watch out
- Attracts lint
Silicone coated
200-350 gsm
Matte grip, slightly tacky
Cost $$$$$
- Water
- Water-resistant, wipe-clean
- Best for
- Lunch bags, tech organisers, bottle sleeves
- Strengths
- Non-slip; premium matte look
- Watch out
- Price; picks up dust
Denier guide
From 210D to 1680D: weight, hand and cost
Cost column is relative to 600D polyester PU, the industry baseline.
| Denier | Weight (approx.) | Hand feel | Typical bags | Relative fabric cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 210D | 110-130 gsm | Thin, packable | Linings, drawstring sacks, packing cubes | 0.5x |
| 300D | 180-200 gsm | Light, flexible | Promo backpacks, RPET totes | 0.7x |
| 420D | 200-230 gsm | Light but tough (nylon) | Hiking packs, gym backpacks | 1.2x (nylon) |
| 600D | 280-320 gsm | Standard, structured | School, laptop, gym, travel | 1.0x (baseline) |
| 900D | 360-400 gsm | Dense, premium | Business, travel, duffels | 1.3x |
| 1000D | 380-420 gsm | Very tough (nylon) | Tactical, range, duty bags | 2.0x (nylon) |
| 1200D | 400-440 gsm | Heavy, stiff | Tool bags, heavy totes | 1.4x |
| 1680D | 480-560 gsm | Ballistic, armour-like | Premium laptop, luggage, tactical | 1.6x |
Coatings & finishes
What the coating does - and what it does in the cold
| Coating / finish | Water resistance | Hand & look | Cold behaviour | Cost | Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| None | Absorbs | Natural | Fine | - | Canvas totes, linings |
| PU (polyurethane) 1x-3x | Shower-proof, 600-2,000 mm | Soft, matte back | Flexible | + | Standard on all coated polyester/nylon |
| PVC backing | Waterproof panel | Stiff, glossy back | Stiffens, may crack | + | Base panels, school bags, tarpaulin |
| TPU laminate | Waterproof, > 5,000 mm | Smooth film face | Flexible | +++ | Dry bags, cooler liners, roll-tops |
| Silicone | Water-resistant | Matte grip | Flexible | ++ | Ultralight ripstop, tech organisers |
| DWR spray | Sheds light rain | No change | Fine | + | Outer face of nylon and canvas |
| Wax | Water-resistant | Heritage sheen, darkens | Stiffens | ++ | Canvas heritage bags |
| Anti-UV / high light-fastness dye | n/a | No change | Fine | + | GCC and outdoor; colour holds grade 5+ |
Our recommendation
Which fabric for which bag
What we would propose if you sent only a bag type and a target price. Every row links to the product page.
School backpack
600D polyester PU, 210D lining, air-mesh back
Cost, print quality, UV stable; ventilated for hot climates
Laptop / business backpack
900D or 1680D polyester PU, PU-leather trim, 210D lining
Dense premium hand; structure for a laptop sleeve
Hiking backpack
420D ripstop nylon body, 1000D nylon base, air mesh
Weight-to-strength; reinforced wear zones
Tactical backpack
1000D nylon PU or 500D + laser-cut laminate
Abrasion, PALS load, IR-safe dye
Travel duffel
1680D polyester PU or 840D TPU, ABS base
Conveyor abrasion; water and dirt
Cooler bag
600D polyester outer, 0.3 mm PEVA liner, 8 mm foam
Food-safe, leak-proof, insulated
Canvas tote
12 oz cotton canvas, pre-washed
Stands up, prints sharp, no shrink after wash
Promotional tote
80-100 gsm non-woven PP or 210D polyester
Lowest unit cost at volume; full-colour print
Gym duffel
600D polyester PU, TPU wet pocket, air mesh
Sweat, chlorine and wipe-clean
Fashion mini backpack
PU or microfiber leather, suede lining
Look and hand at retail price point
Colour
Pantone matching and stock colours
Any Pantone from 1,000 m; 60+ stock colours from 100 bags
Custom shades are dyed to your Pantone TCX reference with a lab dip for approval in three days. Fabric, webbing, binding, zipper tape and thread are dyed against the same reference, and every bulk roll is checked in a D65 cabinet so shade stays within band A/B across the order and on re-orders. Below 1,000 m we match to the nearest stock colour and send the colour card so you choose with the fabric in hand.
- Lab dip in 3 days, sealed for bulk and re-orders
- Fabric, webbing, binding, tape and thread to one reference
- D65 cabinet check on every roll; shade band A/B
- Light-fastness grade 5+ dyes for GCC and outdoor
- Free colour card and swatch set with first reply
- GRS-certified RPET in stock colours
Testing
Six tests every roll or pre-production sample passes
Weight (GSM)
Colour in D65 cabinet
Rubbing fastness
Hydrostatic head
Abrasion
Tensile & tear
In the warehouse
Fabric arriving and being cut
Backpack Padded Mesh Panel Production
Breathable mesh, padded construction and neat edge finishing on a back panel component.
Backpack Inner Panel Production
A finished backpack inner panel alongside its production - precise sewing and assembly of an internal structural part.
Backpack Components in Production
A large batch of backpack components and semi-finished assemblies: back panels, shoulder straps, zippers and details.
Bag fabric FAQ
What does 600D actually mean?
D is denier: the weight in grams of 9,000 metres of the yarn. 600D yarn is twice as heavy as 300D. It is a proxy for thickness and durability, but the weave density, coating and fibre (polyester vs nylon) matter as much - a 420D nylon can outlast a 600D polyester.
Polyester or nylon for my backpack?
Polyester for school, promo, travel and most business bags: cheaper, prints better, more UV-stable. Nylon when weight and tear strength matter more than cost: hiking, tactical, premium outdoor. We quote both on request so you see the difference.
Can you match my Pantone exactly?
Yes. Custom dyeing from 1,000 m per colour (roughly 600-800 backpacks) with a lab dip for approval in 3 days. Below that we match to the nearest of 60+ stock colours on 600D and send a colour card.
What is the minimum for a custom fabric?
Custom colour on a stock article: 1,000 m. Custom weave or coating spec: 3,000 m. Custom printed fabric (sublimation or rotary): 500 m. Stock fabrics and colours have no minimum beyond the bag MOQ of 100.
Is RPET really recycled?
Yes when it carries a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) transaction certificate, which we supply with the order. Without the certificate, "RPET" is a marketing word. Cost is 8-12% above virgin.
Which fabrics work best in Gulf heat?
High light-fastness dyes (grade 5+), lighter colours or coated finishes that reflect heat, PU rather than PVC backings (PVC softens and smells in car-boot heat), and air mesh on every back panel. We condition GCC samples at 50 C before approval.
Do you stock fabric or dye per order?
We stock 60+ colours in 600D polyester, 20+ in 900D/1680D, 10+ in 420D/1000D nylon and 10 lining colours - enough to sample any style in 3-5 days. Custom colours are dyed per order.
Can I get swatches before ordering?
Yes. A free fabric colour card and swatch set ships with your first inquiry reply. Cut swatches of any article in our library are free; you pay only the courier.
How do you test fabric before it is cut?
Every roll: weight, colour vs lab dip in a D65 cabinet, rubbing fastness, coating adhesion, defects per 100 m. Pre-production sample: hydrostatic head, abrasion, tensile, tear. Third-party tests (REACH, CPSIA, Prop 65) on request.
What lining do you recommend?
210D polyester in a light or brand colour so contents are visible, PU-coated so spills do not soak through. Printed lining with a repeat logo is available from 1,000 m and is one of the cheapest ways to make a bag feel branded.
Get the colour card and three fabric proposals for your bag
Tell us the bag type and target price; we reply with two or three fabric options, swatches by courier and a sample plan.
Fabric inquiry
Get the colour card and three fabric proposals
Tell us the bag type and target price; we reply with two or three fabric options, swatches by courier and a sample plan.
- 60+ stock colours, Pantone from 1,000 m
- Free swatch set by courier
- GRS-certified RPET available